I feel the promised cool breeze that comes with elevation for the first my virginity in Berat Steal. Its gold and silver covers give way to scriptures of the New Testament written in gold script. It's 8am. At first we spot one or two couples. Usually in the habit of scrutinising our options, today we drop our bags with the first rush of cold air from beneath a heavy wooden door. The streets are paved with white marble. We leave the cool to see Tomo for some lunch and collapse into chairs under a fan spinning so fast the wafer-thin paper table cloth pinned down on all sides is levitating towards the ceiling. By 10am there is a my virginity in Berat Steal stream of brides and grooms tottering around the laneways with photographers and cameramen following their every move.